The "Secret" is Out

When The PubScout did the first-ever review of Blairstown's new Buck Hill Brewery and Restaurant back in June, he never realized that he would be invited to quaff the very first full pint of the pub's special "stickebier." That's owner Jay Mena (L.) and Brewers Bud Ursinowisc and Nick Vininsky, (R.)

But that honor was realized last evening at the Warren County establishment. Quick note: the Sticke--which means "secret" in German-- was an altbier so smooth, I thought it was on nitro. Packing more flavor than a Baskin-Robbins fountain, it was a collaboration between Buck Hill's Bud Usinowisc and none other than Matt Czigler of Hackettstown's CzigMeister brewery.

But let's step back for a moment. Back in that first review, owner Jay Mena told me he anticipated that his own beer would be flowing sometime around September or October, barring any delays due to governmental red tape. And those delays materialized--though not from the ABC. It was a demarcation line dispute with the county (dating back to 1904) that caused the problem.

And the problem was that the place was already built and up and running quite successfully on a temporary CO while the issue could be addressed. The ABC reasonably told Mena they could not issue a full license to brew until that CO became permanent. Smartly, Mena packed his taps with quality beer, which, accompanied by his outstanding food, kept the business thriving with more and more people making their way to Buck Hill.

"It was costing me thousands of dollars a week, because I couldn't make my own beer," Mena said. Add to that legal costs and fees incurred during his involvement with the county, and what seemed to be such a promising business venture was becoming a hassle.

Enter Matt Czigler and Czigmeister. And therein lies another secret. With brewpubs and breweries popping up like Jersey dandelions in the Spring, some people might be tempted to think that the competition for customers would be cutthroat. Those people apparently have not met guys like Matt Czigler.

His brewery, which is doing all the right things, is attracting a wide, loyal customer base. And he reached out to Mena and offered to allow Buck Hill to brew some of their recipes at his Czigmeister operation. He and Usinowisc also combined their talents and their recipes to produce the excellent stickebier collaboration that was rolled out last night.

"We should be making our own stuff here within a month," Mena shared. "We have the capacity to produce 750 barrels, but I'll be happy if we reach 500 barrels in our first year."

If the "Sticke" is on the menu, that goal seems absolutely attainable. Also unveiled last night were a delightful Buck Hill Red and a delicious Amber that Usinowisc and his assistant Nick Vininsky crafted.

Of course, last night's event featured a tap takeover with Czigler's brews and three of his excellent beers were also available to a packed house. Manager Greg Schmatz, who was busier than a long-tailed cat in a room full of rocking chairs, said, "The bar is packed two deep because of the Tap Takeover, but the rest of the place is normally this busy on a Thursday night." Even Czigler and Meghan (who absolutely refuses to talk with food in her mouth) were there drinking and dining in relative anonymity.

And the decor of the place is every bit as great as the food and the beer. (Note to the PBBC: the "Smoked Honey Chili Wings" give our "PC favorites" some very stiff competition, and it's just as nice a ride.) I even got to meet Shawn Baldwin, the local GC who oversaw construction of the whole facility, from the hickory-topped tables to the iron work to the antler chandeliers.

Baldwin, as it happens, is married to one of my former students (who apparently has found the Fountain of Youth), and because they make their home in Blairstown, they came to the event. Lia is still the same sweet kid she was in HS, and she calls Shawn "The Mayor" because of all the people he knows that frequent the place. That's one of the side benefits of going to pubs like this--meeting new people, like Dave and Bernie, who turned me on to those exceptional wings, and while seated next to me, was rewarded with a full pint of The Secret.