On the Beaten Path

For the second time in a month, The PubScout, in his unending quest for good beer, good pubs and good people, has traveled via four wheels where he usually travels on two. Last time, it was on Rt.514 in Somerset County; this time it was Rt. 518 in Mercer County. Both those roads are great motorcycle roads which lead to the wonderful areas of West Jersey, Pennsylvania and the magnificent Delaware River.

So I had to have passed the Brick Farm Tavern many times without ever realizing how cool it was, and certainly without knowing just how expansive the property it sits on is. Jon and Robin McConaughy, who, in 2004, owned just one cow, "wanted to know where their food came from." And the Double Brook Farm was born.

Now, the farm raises pigs, sheep, chickens, turkeys, goats, cows, and ducks, and practices a sustainable--and apparently profitable-- "farm-to-fork" operation. And even more important, the site houses a brewery in a two-hundred year-old barn and horse stable. And a distillery, for goodness sake, but more about that later.

The brewery is named Troon Brewing, and it's the brainchild of twenty-six year-old Alex Helms. Helms, a Montgomery resident, Pennington and Wheaton graduate, avid writer and jungle survivor, is an unassuming, camera-shy but passionate operator of a four-barrel system that he "pushes to five."

His operation, less than a year old, is attracting attention as well as crowds, if his "Opening Day" event is any indication. Every parking lot was filled, except for the one space directly in front of the brewhouse where I parked. (King Gambrinus takes care of his subjects that way, it seems.) No sooner had I emerged from the car than I was greeted by a jolly, gregarious and avuncular fellow who welcomed me with sincerity in his voice and manner. It was Dennis Helms, the brewer's father, I soon learned, and he quickly escorted me in meet his son.

Alex Helms is currently producing six beers, a 5.25% Saison, a 9.2% DIPA( his best seller), a delicious 7% Wheat IPA, a 7.5% Oats and Honey Ale, an English Porter (7.6%) with maple syrup and cinnamon, and a 6.2% Wheat Pale Ale. He had another DIPA in the tun that was set to come out at 10% ABV. Helms' beers are generally unfiltered, and, consequently, will appear cloudy. Some beer drinkers eschew that style, but the PubScout is not one of them. I prefer to call them flavorful, juicy and chewy. Helms's DIPA was quite good, but my favorite was the Wheat IPA which went spectacularly with my Pulled Pork Sandwich at the Tavern. The menu describes it thusly: "Berkshire Pork | Honey Crisp Apple | Sourdough Spätzle | Brussels Sprouts | Sage | Pork Jus." The pigs that sacrificed their lives for this dish were likely fed spent grains from the brewhouse. Of course, quality "farm-to-table" costs more than cheap "freezer-to-fryer" fare, but I'd advise going for lunch (pretty much the same offerings) where the tab is a tad more manageable for geezers like me on fixed incomes.

But the Double Brook Farm has other enticements that could seriously impact a wallet. The Sourland Mountain Distillery is also on the property, and the plan is to sell quality spirits brewed on site like gin and whiskey directly to visitors.

I suspect some of my ancestors in the hills of NC dabbled a bit in this backwoods art, but they never would believe the operation overseen by Head Distiller Camden Winkelstein. With modern, computer-monitored and impressive equipment (including the revered Hagyo system), Cam, a Navy vet and holder of various academic degrees, will begin putting out his first batch of exceptional quality, crystal clear gin next month.

Though The PubScout rarely uses spirits, I was so impressed by this operation--not to mention seeing that Ray Disch (Co-Founder and President of Triumph Brewing) was involved in it--that I ordered a bottle. And speaking of the Triumph connection, former horticulturist-turned-master-brewer Tom Stevenson was also on site to assist Alex Helms with beer sales and growler fills.

Because Helms does not have a tasting room in the brewhouse, he could dispense with the tours, but he's happy to chat with anyone who walks in about his beers, his mission and the process. While Helms may have begun the day as camera-shy, he was over that by the time my team left. He was posing--though not drinking-- with everyone and anyone.

Fortunately, he has the Brick Farm Tavern a stone's throw away to serve his beers, and this is one of the neatest pub/restaurants you will come across. Brick walls, high ceilings, hand-hewn beams and even a 3500 bottle wine cellar with a private tasting room in the basement, the BFT is a great place to quaff. If you wish, you can even reserve the "Tasting Table" just off the open (and spectacularly clean and efficient) kitchen, where you and your buds can gain an unobstructed view into what "farm-to-table" looks like.

Again, if yesterday's grand opening is any indication, there may not be a seat open at this table, especially if you go on a weekend.

It's nice to know that when the hot weather comes back, I'll have a neat place to stop and wet my whistle on some quality beer.

Cam Winkelstein even offered to do a "Day at the Distillery" for special groups who want to learn the process and see how it works. My MC group, the PBBC, would probably go for that.

Even if they have to leave their bikes at the farm and take Uber home. They're dedicated that way. Cheers!

The PubScout