An Oasis of Good in Toms River

OK. Full disclosure. Up front.

I have performed often at Artisan's Brewery & Italian Grill in Toms River. I have sung, danced, told jokes and talked beer there many times.

But for love, not for money.

I just love going there. And here's why.

Consider that Dave Hoffmann, proprietor of NJ's very first microbrewery, is the brewer, cranking out some damned fine beers on a regular basis, in addition to running his own operation up north, which includes contract brewing for other microbreweries and startups.

Consider also that Executive Chef Extraordinaire Steve Farley is also one of the beer-savviest Chefs in the state, and that he and his kitchen staff are responsible for Artisan's stellar reputation among foodies throughout NJ.

Hoffmann and Farley put their wares and talents on display daily, but when they join forces for the annual Oktoberfest Bash (still the largest in the state), magic happens. And I'm not talking about my singing, dancing or joke telling, though I do draw inspiration from the beautiful servers in dirndls and the live Oompah Band.

The entire staff, from managers to hostesses to servers to bartenders, are very friendly and genuinely nice folks. They make their customers feel right at home while generating a "this is your place" kind of feeling that makes you want to return. There's even a special plaque mounted above the bar for a regular customer who recently went on to his eternal reward. In fact, one of Hoffmann's beers currently on tap(Pog Mo Thoin) a super DIPA, is named in honor of the guy.

That kind of customer connection starts, as good business usually does, with good will from the top, and with two owners with the same name--Pete. (The story involves their beloved mother and an ouzo-fueled night when she was young, I think.)

I stopped in today for a Hoffmann brew and a Farley BLT after 125 miles on two wheels. It was like I came home--handshakes, hugs--even a big kiss from Liz, "the hostess with the mostest." And while eating, drinking and kibitzing, I glanced at the beer menu. The first page was Hoffmann-inspired and outstanding in its own right.

But the second page listed some of the finest bottled craft beers in the country, if not the world.

That Westbrook Mexican Cake is flying out the door, according to "Pete," and the panoply of beers is extensive. Great beers from Belgium, Canada, Sweden and Germany are here. And the selections from the states are just as solid. For that, credit Chef Steve Farley's seasoned tastebuds and "beersperience." And add another feather in Artisan's cap, because it's one thing to have a great brewer working in house, and another to have a knowledgeable beer guy in the kitchen when it comes to pairing great food with great beer.