Another Winner in Blairstown

As if it weren't enough to have the best high school wrestling team in the country in Blair Academy, tiny Blairstown now has the best--and very first--brewpub in Warren County.

Just being first doesn't guarantee greatness, I know, but from what I have seen, the Buck Hill Brewery and Restaurant is going to have a very long honeymoon and will likely thrive big-time. Any place that has this kind of quality AND designated motorcycle parking is already a winner in my book.

Sitting atop a picturesque hill at the junction of Rts. 94 and 521 in quaint Blairstown, the Buck Hill Brewery, open just two weeks, is hitting on all twelve cylinders, and they haven't even made their first beer yet. It's so new, their website is still just in the nascent stage.

But their operation sure isn't.

Owner Jay Mena, a savvy beer guy in his own right (and multiple business owner), says that governmental red tape will likely delay Buck Hill Brewery's license until August, which means the first pour won't happen until late September or early October. But he and his manager Greg Schmatz, another beer geek, promise that when it happens, it will be epic. Based on my visit today, I wouldn't doubt that prediction

That's because the local restaurant is deeply involved with and committed to the local community, from farmers to carpenters to ironworkers to patrons. This bright, folksy and well-appointed facility shows the unmistakable mark of exceptional craftsmanship throughout, from the ironwork fencing on the second floor to the hickory-topped tables--all crafted by local folks. Its two floors are at once clean and rustic--and very welcoming.

And that may account for the crowds that have been flocking to it since it opened just two weeks ago. Though many are local, according to Executive Chef Dave Koromi, many more are learning of Buck Hill's existence and making the trek to Blairstown to see what all the fuss is about.

What it's about is exceptionally fresh, natural food expertly prepared that comes directly from local farms to your table, a trend that is becoming known as "earth-to-fork." Greg Schmatz, who made his bones at Jake's down in Flemington (where they used to serve an out-of-this-world Kobe Beef hamburger) is fully committed to the farm-to-table/community concept and even hinted that Buck Hill may be getting its own brand of Wagyu beef. I was sworn to secrecy on that score about the details, so mum's the word.

But when that brewery gets humming under the practiced hand of Bud Usinowisc and his assistant, Nick Vininski, the brewers plan to use fresh hops grown on Mena's farm where he currently is cultivating Centennial, Cascade, Willamette and other varieties. "We're not going to pelletize," said Mena. "We're going whole flower and the dry hop route as long as we can. " The brewers will also use other locally grown hops.

Mena and Schmatz want to do everything right, and so far, they have. Two weeks' worth of packed houses (400 dinners last night alone) would seem to augur well for the foundling business, too. Add to that craft beers made to the same exacting standards as the food and the building itself, and you'll likely have a winner.

With the Blair Academy Wrestling team right up the road, Blairstown would be used to that.

Cheers!

The PubScout

Location

45 State Route 94, Blairstown NJ Conveniently located off exit 12, Route 80 Phone: 908-854-5300

Mon-Thurs 4pm – 10pm Friday 4pm – 2am Saturday 11am – 2am Sunday 11am – 10pm